I often get asked if I find doing makeup on "older" faces hard and the answer is no. Every makeup I do is tailored to the person and I don't really find it any harder than doing a 16 year olds school ball makeup. There are definitely certain products that I do recommend however to help with creasing around the eyes etc. My lovely Mum modeled for me in the images below.
Benefit Gimme Brow in #3
MAC Paint Pot in Ground Work
MAC Eyeshadow in Embark
Maybelline Push Up Drama Mascara
Bronzer (Sigma Powder Brush) Can use the same brush as your powder.
Bobbi Brown Blush Brush
MAC 217 Brush
Bobbi Brown Touch Up Brush
Step 1 - Make sure your skin is well moisturised. Apply a thin layer of Hourglass Mineral Veil Primer all over the face with your fingers. This is the best primer I have yet to try which actually helps to keep your makeup on for longer!
Step 2 - Dot the foundation over the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin then blend out in circular buffing motions with the Sigma Flat Kabuki Brush. Using the Sigma Concealer Brush take your foundation right up under the eyes and then a thin layer over the eyelids. Make sure to get right into that corner of the eye where it is darkest, right up against the bridge of the nose. I find less is more under the eyes and I prefer not to use concealer if I can get away with it as I think too much product under there makes it look cakey. The NARS foundation I have used gives a medium coverage and has a beautiful finish on every skin type, they also have great colours. If you are going to splurge on one thing then make it your foundation, it's very hard to get the right colour and texture from cheaper brands.
Step 3 - Set your foundation with the Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in Dim Light, this powder is light reflecting and super finely milled which means it doesn't dull down your complexion like most powders. Make sure to sweep the powder under the eyes and over the eyelids, swipe your finger over the eyelids first to get rid of any foundation creases.
Step 4 - Using a big fluffy Bronzer brush apply the Bronzer around the edge of the face and up under the cheek bones. This needs to be very blended and is purely to add warmth and a bit of dimension to the skin. Start with a little bit and build it up.
Step 5 - Add some colour to your face with blush! Blush is something that is totally under-utilized and can instantly freshen up a look. The colour choice is very important as most ladies I do lessons with tend to go for "safe" darker browns and pinks. If your going past a Bobbi Brown Counter please stop and check out the colour Pale Pink which is what I have used here, it is a super cool toned pink with no brown base to it. As a rule of thumb all powders tend to go darker once applied to the skin and dark blush can look muddy or heavy rather than fresh and pretty. The best way to apply blush is with a nice soft Blush Brush like the Bobbi Brown one and smile at yourself in the mirror so the round apples of your cheeks pop out. Sweep the colour all over this area and slightly up your cheek bone. This is where you naturally "blush" and looks far nicer than adding a stripe of pink up the side of your cheek bone.
Step 6 - I have just brushed a wee bit of Benefits Gimme Brow in #3 through Mums brows, brow mascara is great because it is super natural looking and helps cover any stray grey hairs.
Step 7 - With the Sigma Concealer brush again apply a thin layer of MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork all over the lid to about 3/4 of the way up to the brow. You want to just see the colour above your eyelid crease when your eyes are open. Long lasting cream eyeshadows are the way to go if you struggle with your eyeshadows creasing, I have used it as a base here but you can get all sorts of colours and wear them on their own. Bobbi Brown do fantastic Cream Eyeshadows and Shadow Sticks. MAC does Paint Pots which are similar.
Step 8 - Using the MAC 217 Brush apply Makeup Geek Eyeshadow in Frappe directly over where you applied the Paint Pot, the colour I have used is quite soft. I recommend keeping any dark eyeliner or eyeshadow just around your lash line rather than take it too high. This is when you tend to get into trouble and just looks too heavy. I personally feel that eyeshadows don't always need to be Matte, shimmery eyeshadows have come a long way from the old frosted or chunky glitter and tend to be super fine powders. Just make sure don't take any shimmery eyeshadow too high up on the eyelid and always use a matte powder to highlight under the eyebrow if you like that look. I don't usually highlight under there as I find by prepping the eye area with foundation and powder gives a slight highlight anyway. Side note - by prepping the eye area with a thin layer of foundation and powder helps to prevent creasing, if you do notice any creasing under the eyes then just tap the area with your ring finger to re blend.
Step 9 - Using the Bobbi Brown Gel Liner and the Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 Brush draw a thin line as close to the lashes as possible. Gel liner stays on much longer than pencil and won't smudge. If your unsure about using gel then you can dampen the brush and use a dark eyeshadow as a liner instead, this way when the eyeshadow dries it is easy to smudge out if your line isn't perfect.
Step 10 - If your wanting to create more of a smokey eye then continue on, otherwise you can just add mascara and your done. In this image I have used the Bobbi Brown Touch Up Brush and pressed MAC Embark along the lash line in a thick line, then I blended over the whole lot with Frappe again. Then using the top edge of the Touch Up Brush I brought a small amount of Embark down along the lower lash line. Using eyeshadow along the lower lashes rather than an eyeliner pencil gives a much softer look.
Step 11 - Finish it all off with a decent coat of mascara and a gorgeous lippy! I have used the Bobbi Brown new Luxe Lip Colour here as it is beautiful and creamy in texture. There are lots of long wearing lipsticks out there but I find them extremely drying and yes they may stay on all day but that doesn't mean they stay looking great all day. I would prefer to line the lips and then fill them in with lip liner before applying the lipstick as this helps with longevity.
If you have any questions about products or application techniques, please get in touch at firstname.lastname@example.org